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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.